Sunday, August 15, 2010

Second thoughts on São Paulo

First, I should apologize again for not taking any photos of São Paulo.

Second, I don't think I got it right when I noted that São Paulo is bland because it's just a little bit of everything. While running on Praia do Flamengo in Rio on my penultimate day, I came to another conclusion.

All of Brazil has a flavor. In the Northeast, there are lovely beaches and historic colonial towns and the history of a sugar cane boom mixed with the stain of years of slavery. (And in many cases, the Afro-Brazilian culture that came from slavery.) The South has its European immigrants, the efficiently-run cities full of (relatively) well-educated citizens, and the legacy of agriculture. Rio de Janeiro is unique, and was the capital for almost two hundred years. Brasilia is Tomorrowland. The North is properly tropical, centered on rainforests and rivers.

By contrast, São Paulo doesn't really have a flavor. In the national stereotype, people who live there work hard, are rich, and are dull. Parts of São Paulo look like any other large city in the world, especially in Zona Sul. My cousin Chris made this observation as we walked down Avenida Paulista, the Wall Street of Brazil. Aside from the structures at Masp and Fiesp, the Avenida would not be out of place in New York, LA, or Chicago.

In sum, Sampa is generic. It doesn't have anything that makes it stand apart from the rest of Brazil, except that it's big and rich. It's flavorless.

That being said, I'll probably live there again. To begin, it has the best universities and the best libraries in the country.

2 comments:

Bernardo Jurema said...

i thought you might like to see this. it's a song by tom zé about são paulo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAabpZpXmLQ

"São oito milhões de habitantes
De todo canto e nação
Que se agridem cortesmente
Correndo a todo vapor
E amando com todo ódio
Se odeiam com todo amor"

Bernardo Jurema said...

ah essa versão é mais fácil pra entender:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckLfUBsCmYs