Short story:
I went running today, with the aim of reaching Praia Vermelha at the foot of Sugarloaf in the Urca neighborhood. That's about eight or nine miles round-trip.
In addition to my filled water bottle, I carried a one real coin and a 50 cents coin. I hoped that I could stop to get some chilled coconut water, as I had previously returned to the apartment very thirsty after a run to Urca.
At nine this morning, the weather was 24 degrees with 94% humidity. The forecast called for a 20% chance of rain. The news on Friday night had predicted a gloomy weekend, and stated that anyone who wanted to go to the beach should head for the North or Northeast. By the time I reached the end of Botafogo, it was 33 degrees and cloudless. It was hot, and the beaches were full. Weather forecasts here are useless.
Today was also Independence Day, the day that Dom Pedro I refused to return to Lisbon and declared Brazil independent, "from the banks of the Ipiranga...." Save the crowds at the beach and the military cadets marching, the city was closed.
I did reach Praia Vermelha, which looks like this from above.
On the return from Botafogo, south of Flamengo, I stopped to ask for coco water in um copozinho (a little cup). The vendor apologized that the only bottles he had were bem gelado (well-chilled), and I assured him that this was just fine by giving him the American "a-okay" hand gesture. In Brazil, this hand gesture translates to "you a--hole." My mistake.
Then he named the price: 2,50. I declined.
As I walked down Praia do Flamengo, very dehydrated, I kept seeing "Coco 2,00" signs. I questioned my memory that there are multiple R$1,50 stands in Flamengo. I don't think I was wrong; I was just wrong to ignore the laws of supply and demand.
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